Saturday 1st February - Rest day in Punakaiki

We decided we needed a rest day and as the backpackers was reasonably priced and comfortable,  why not stay an extra day. The Pancake Rocks and Blowholes were just up the road so we could take a gentle day walking up to see them.

Life is all about timing and we had a late start as we had light rain early morning and we spent time in the lounge at the backpacker lodge looking at our future plans and route as well as organising a touch of washing our very limited supply of clothing.  High tide was 12.45 p.m. and it worked out as we arrived at the view point there at 12.20. The sights were spectacular!  Last year we spent a lot of time on the Great Ocean Road looking at rock formations but we both agreed the these took it to a new level. We were glad that we had given ourselves a day to see them and that we could do so without worrying about the bikes and kit.

Above the dreaded sand flies! The outer tent was alive with hundreds of them and some made it to the inner tent and Catherine suffered a few bites in the night. Our skins could not be more different. I must have been bitten but if so, I am unaware, whereas Catherine has great big bumps all over her despite four antihistamines per day . They are a real pest and the worst thing about travelling around New Zealand.

The blow hole in full swing. This was enough to soak some unexpecting tourists down wind.

This is what the sign said you should see

Yes I can see some of that at least

Well what do you do at Pancake Rocks? ......Eat pancakes? ..... Well that works for me! With banana, bacon, honey, cream.  Wow.

C takes a rest as the sea crashes in.

The backpackers as seen from the seashore. You can just see our tent pitched at the back.

Above route six a road we have cycled for many a mile on South Island

Getting our kicks on route six!

There is a walk along the riverside which looks great.

Friday 31st January - Westport to Punakaiki

Today was an excellent day for both cycling and sightseeing along the West Coast.  First we cycled to the Seal Colony just south of Westport and watched a few families of seals enjoying themselves on the rocks and waves.  Then we got back on our route South.  After about 20 miles we found a cafe that was open and supplied soup and scones as well as coffee and milkshakes.  This was at Charleston.  We were pleased that we stopped there to refuel as the following 25 miles were spectacular but very hilly too.

Above, perpendicular hill

Below, sunset view from our beachfront camp

Thursday 30th January - Murchison to Westport

A sixty five miles day of cycling with all our kit. The weather was sort of on our side as it was sunny and dry and not too hot but the wind was against us from the west and it gained strength as we neared the West Coast. We will be on the West Coast for some time now so the wind may be a prominent feature.

We stopped off at the longest swing bridge in NZ and paid our admission to walk over the bridge and Catherine had a go on the zip wire. We had got on the road for eight o'clock and were the first customers of the day at the Gorge bridge, arriving just after nine. We had a coffe there and I am really glad that we did!

We were then back on the bikes at 10 a.m. and we knew we had fifty odd miles still to cover in hilly terrain, lots of weight on board and a slight head wind. There was a cafe mentioned in blogs we had read but our bible for our cycling ( Peddlers Paradise) mentioned it may have closed down. It was! We sat in the shade at at the cafe and whilst we were there about five vehicles stopped and tried the door. We are surprised it had closed down as there seemed lots of passing trade and no competition. On we travelled hoping to stop at the next cafe but alas that was a business but not open despite signs for miles advertising it's coffee. Thank good we had had a drink at the swing bridge and made sure we had plenty of water with us.

Camped at the Top 10 camp site just outside Westport near the seal colony, arriving about six which is late for us. Not much time to shower, wash and dry our clothes and prepare and eat a meal before dark.

Enjoying our coffee at the swing bridge

Sulking at the closed cafe number one

Gorge cycling all day following the river Buller

Wednesday 29th January - St Arnaud to Murchison

A nice hot sunny day. The next town was Murchison and it was only 35 miles and down hill mostly. Beyond this, it is sixty miles with few towns or campsites to Westport, so it makes sense to stop at the small quaint town of Murchison.

Here is a view of our backpackers stop at St Arnauld when we started our journey.

There was only a few people there, so almost had the place to ourselves and it was also good value.

On the road and little traffic!

Our cafe stop

Catherine pinches one of my chips!

Murchison Church just by our campsite.

Westport tomorrow and not much as far as we know in the form of cafés and shops

Our stop for night.

Below, what a photo to put on the blog!

Tuesday 28th Jan - A day looking around Lake Rotoiti

Rest day today and we got the washing on the line on a lovely sunny day. Then we managed a gentle walk along the lakeside. I have downloaded for the blog nearly all the photos we took today as I like them all although the backdrop is pretty much the same.  

The sand flies are a real menace.  They seem to love Catherine but leave Tony  in peace.  The only real deterrent is to cover up!  As Catherine has already experienced her severe reaction to the sand fly she is today taking no chances at all.  

Monday 27th January -Nelson to St Arnaud

Nelson has really good cycle paths and facilities. We started the day cycling through wine groves and when I say through they really were at the side of the cycle track. We were following the Great Taste Cycle Trail for a while which had been an old railway line.

Once we had cycled along the coast to Wakefield we turned onto the Golden Downs Trail along 80/8 Valley Road and also turned into the hills. We had two saddles to go over before reaching Tophouse Reays Hill Saddle and Kent  Hill Saddle. It was hard going but the weather was ideal at about 23 degrees with light cloud keeping the sun off us on the climbs and with no wind to speak of.

We eventually reached the end of the valley. We had enjoyed its traffic free roads, apart from the occasional logging truck that swept past within inches of us despite the fact that the road was wide and they had loads of room to move over!

Stayed at Nelson Lakes Motels as the DOC site was cheap but very basic. This is the Nelson Lakes Area and we are planning to stop an extra night and explore the alpine lake area in a bit more detail. 

Above and below are photos the Nelson coast as we cycle along their cycle track

The Great Taste Trail Cycleway

Cycling right next to the grape vines

Checking out the route

On the home straight to St Arnaud for our nights rest 

Sunday 26th Jan - Havelock to Nelson

Well we are in Nelson, nice and early and just had a hot bath, a cup of tea, put the room heater on and got into bed to warm up. We have had a real soaking today but we dealt with it all well.

We got the tent up in the dry and cycled to Pelorus Bridge, ten miles into our route and stopped at the cafe there before the rain started. Unbeknown to us this was to be the only stop of the day! We had strong gusting winds and persistent rain and the wind was generally against us. Rai Saddle was at 247 metres, a a long climb with quite a steep finish and although and we had a cold descent. After that we were forced to just stop in the rain at the side of the road and eat before the next climb as we could not even find a bus shelter to get out of the rain.

We knew we had about twenty miles to do and another big climb. Although Whangamoa Saddle should have been the hardest at 357 metres the wind had moved a little so it was now pushing us along. Before we knew it we were on a long long steady decent to the coast with the wind rocking us and the rain still strong in our faces.

We cycled to the bottom and then had a flat ride along the coast. Catherine announced that it had stopped raining and the storm had passed. Optimistic as always. As soon as she said it howevera massive cross wind hit us almost resulting in both of us nearly blown sideways off our bikes. The rain smashed down like I had never known it, but the good news was the wind hit us from behind and we soared along the flat at between 14 and 18 miles an hour. The rain was still like a firemans hose and even on the outskirts of Nelson there was no-shelter .

Made it to the CBD and by now it was getting dangerous to cycle in a full out tropical storm like conditions. We went into the first motel we found and a few minutes later all our stuff is drying by the heater and we have had a warm bath. 

My hands and feet were wrinkled like I had been in the bath for hours and we were both soaked through despite our waterproofs.The bags held up well however and we were pleased to see all was dry inside the bags. A successful challenging test for our Ortlieb pannier bags. 

The wind is now still howling outside and rain still drumming on the ground. 

An exciting day however! The camera for most of the day was in a waterproof bag and not an easy day for photos.

See below for a photo at Pelorus Bridge cafe, it was Sunday morning and only just nine so we were pleased to see the open sign.

We were soaked to the skin when we got to our room so we threw everything inside and took our soaking wet things of at the door and threw them in. We have a heater though so our things are already drying well . The wind whistles around the hotel but sunshine forecast for tomorrow!